Reflections on Cambodia

Our journey in Cambodia started in Siem Reap.  We arrived in the evening after a long bus, minibus, tuk tuk, land border crossing, mini bus, tuk tuk ride kind of day.  Although we were very tired, we quickly discovered that Siem Reap is a vibrant city with great energy, intuitive urban planning, good food and actual greenspace. The kids insisted on eating western food our first night and we found a delightful Mexican restaurant that served delicious tacos (I think Jake ate 6) and Krud beer (local Cambodian brew). 

Day two, and In advance of our tour of Angkor Wat we took the kids to the National Museum, which is full of  Angkorian artefacts and provided a good historical background about art and culture of Khmer civilization.  The kids spent hours walking through the galleries with the audio guides learning about the history of the area.  When Jake got bored he started sketching his favourite artefacts, which occupied another hour or so and tested his drawing skills. Overall, awesome day!  

With an early start on day three, we took a tuk tuk to Angkor Wat. We arrived early in the morning to beat the crowds, however by 11am we were joined by a sea of tourists armed with selfie sticks. It was like a battle for the perfect Instagram photo. 

As we walked around the temple complex, we couldn’t help but feel in awe of the sheer size and beauty of the place. We marvelled at the intricate carvings and architecture, and the kids even took turns trying to imitate the poses of the famous Khmer women carved into the temple walls throughout the grounds. Fun fact, apparently the “Tomb Raider” movie was also filmed at one of the temples too! Who knew? Apparently everyone else but us 🙂 .  

That night, we bought tickets to the Phare Circus. This circus is reminiscent of Cirque, as it combines high-energy acrobatics, storytelling, music and dance to create a truly magical experience.  In addition to being a great show, it also has the goal of providing employment and training opportunities for young Cambodian artists. Many of them come from disadvantaged backgrounds, and the circus provides them with an opportunity to showcase their talent and earn a living doing what they love. The kids were in awe (and quiet!!!) for the entire performance as they were transported to another world through skilled acrobatics, storytelling and dance.  An unforgettable experience! 

After Siem Reap, we spent a quick night in Phnom Penh. We debated staying around longer to expose the kids to the tragic history of the Khmer Rouge regime via visiting the killing fields and S-21 prison, however after much reflection we decided against it.  Seeing the world, experiencing different cultures/ histories, witnessing the lives of children and families with different economic and social privileges has been eye opening and as parents we are constantly gauging what is worth exposure and what is too much  for them to handle at their age – no easy answers and not sure if we made the right call, but we move forward regardless.  

The island of Koh Rong Sanloem was our sun and sand destination for Addy’s b-day, her only birthday wish. We spent seven days lounging on the white sand beaches, exploring the jungle, paddle boarding, watching fire shows, kayaking and snorkelling. For the entire week we didn’t wear shoes, in fact, every establishment had water hoses in front of their entrances for feet washing! Amazing. We were SO happy to be on the island with the Leas (we kind of followed them there as a surprise ;)) and our hotels were a short distance away. The parents were able to workout or do yoga together in the morning and the kids could run up and down the beach between our hotels.  

We swam in the warm, clear water, enjoyed some delicious seafood, and even went on a nighttime bioluminescent plankton tour, which was truly magical.  Addy said it was like ‘swimming in the stars’! The kids called Nick the plankton whisper because he attracted the most sparkle. 

For many reasons Koh Rong Sanloem was really incredible however we learned from the locals it may not be the same in 10 years, as international monies are said to be taking over – which will result in the bulldozing of the tiny huts and hotels that exist currently to be replaced with 5 star accommodation. A kind of paving of paradise story – I am sure that is an oversimplification.   

Our week on Koh Rong Sanloem was too short and because it was the last leg of our journey with our friends the Leas, leaving was particularly heartbreaking.  We truly fell in love with this beautiful family, who we met by fate at the border in Laos and ended up tagging along with for an entire month!  Their kindness, patience, ambition and bravery is an inspiration and I know we will be friends for years to come!   Addy and Poppy are already planning their next adventure together (when they are 20!). 

We had a short stay in Kep , long enough to eat DELICIOUS crab and hike in the national park.  From Kep it is a long day trip across the Mekong Delta to Vietnam.  At the Cambodian/Vietnamese border we were adopted by a South African digital nomad who had two huge suitcases, in addition to other bags, which we helped her drag between countries.  Somewhere in no man’s land Nick’s sandal broke – his only pair of shoes (he had recently lost his sneakers when we were travelling by boat – our luggage was put in the haul with two shoes and came out with one – and we didn’t discover the loss until it was too late), thankfully a skilled street cobbler was awaiting us in Vietnam !

Our short time in Cambodia was so amazing. Great city and natural experiences, a history that is both tragic and inspiring, and a resilient people so friendly and welcoming that we will be sure to return one day.