Surfing, Volcanoes and Dragons

We arrived in Bali in the middle of the night and in a torrential rainstorm, so our first hour (driving from the airport to our hotel) was nerve wracking – there were points where we could barely see in front of us the rain was pounding so hard; most terrifying were the motorcycles (without rear lights) that would appear out of nowhere as we sped by.  Thankfully, the car had seat belts and the kids dozed, safely strapped in,  for the entire ride. We were pleasantly surprised to awake to sounds of chirping birds and gentle breezes from our little bungalow in Padangbai.  Padangbai  is a small fishing village located on the east coast of Bali. To be honest, it was a misbooking on our part, but a happy mistake in the end.  We were greeted warmly at breakfast by the owner of the guest house, Marcel and his wife Made along with their collection of animals including dogs and most surprising turtles that roamed the property. Marcel first started visiting Bali in the late seventies and says he was always drawn back by the ‘magic’ the island possesses. Although Indonesia is predominantly Muslim, Bali is different with the bulk of Balinese people practising Hinduism. We were immediately drawn to the laid-back vibe and beautiful beaches of this sleepy town and the kindness of its people. We spent our first day exploring the local beach. The swell and waves were much bigger than what we were used to, giving us all a greater appreciation for the sheer  power of the ocean and our need to respect it. 

After a few days in Padangbai, we hopped on a boat to Nusa Lembongan, a small island off the coast of Bali. This island was recommended to us by a lovely Italian couple we met in Cambodia, who just fell in love with the place.  This island is known for its stunning scenery, crystal-clear waters, and incredible marine life. We spent our days exploring the island’s beautiful beaches, snorkelling in the warm waters, and admiring the towering cliffs that rise up from the sea. You can walk to the top of a cliff that overlooks a cove and as waves crash against the cliff, mist sprays, giving the place the name Devil’s tears.  When we were there we caught sight of rainbows in the mist and even saw a turtle popping up for air – the cove was pretty treacherous, but we guessed that it might have trapped delicious things for him to eat because he dove and resurfaced a number of times.  

Next, we made our way to Gili Air, one of the three Gili Islands located off the coast of Lombok. There are no motorized vehicles on the island, so you have to travel by horse drawn cart, walk or bike to get around. We stayed on the north end of the island, so we took a horse and cart to get to our bungalow from the southern port upon arrival, but in true mean parent fashion we made the kids walk to the port when we left, it was early morning, sweltering hot (I think nearly 30 degrees), but they walked with their backpacks and few complaints the 2kms.  This island has also been recommended to us and  is known for being  laid-back and family friendly.   We spent our days lounging on the soft sand beaches, swimming in the warm waters, and exploring the island’s many shops and restaurants (gosh, we are really beach bumming it!). 

A short boat ride from Gili Air is the larger island of Lombok, where we would learn to surf.   Nick had Selong Belanak accommodation booked months in advance because he had researched that this was a great place to learn to surf.  The beach itself is gorgeous, soft, white sand surrounded by lush tropical forests and countless coves, but the main draw here is the gentle surf – ideal of those learning to catch a wave.  On our first day we all embraced the challenge with gusto and got up on many waves, our teachers steading our boards and yelling for us to paddle harder and get up as they pushed us into the surf.  By midday we were all very proud of ourselves and quite tired.  Surprisingly, Jake wanted to take a rest, so after lunch he and Amy played on the beach, while Adeline and Nick continued to surf.  On day two, Nick was the only one who continued surfing – I think the rest of us got a bit timid about the break (even though it was small and safe).

While we were in the south our visa extension was being processed, so by the end of the week (still as beginner surfers ;)) we went back up north to pick up our passports and headed to Mount Rinjani in Lombok, Indonesia, to hike this the majestic peak with our kids. The journey began with a scenic drive to the starting point, where we had an afternoon to explore some local waterfalls before an early morning start.

Leaving our main bags in our hotel, we set off with just the essentials (sleeping sacs, first aid kit, clean underwear, warm layers and toothbrushes).  You have to hire a guide and porter for this hike, our guide carried a backpack and the porter (in flip flops) had two large packs balanced across a huge bamboo pole. The trail itself was challenging,  hard mud covered in a layer of loose gravel and sand made for a very slippery ascent (we would find out the next day that descent was worse),  but the kids amazed us with their resilience and determination. We took frequent breaks to rest, refuel, and appreciate the stunning surroundings.  The kids were particularly in awe of the fact that we  hiked into the clouds and then reached heights above them.   Jake said it was like being in an airplane.  

The highlight of our hike was undoubtedly reaching the crater rim. As we ascended, we were awestruck by the breathtaking views before us.  It was truly like nothing we have ever seen. Camping overnight on the rim was an experience we will not soon forget.  We booked a budget trip and budget accommodation we got!  The packs on our porters bamboo poll turned into a two person tent (please note we are four ;)), four semi-clean sleeping bags and yoga mats (thank goodness we each had a bed) and camp stove and food.  We did not have a ‘popup poop tent’ (which all other campers had), so we had to find privacy in the bush – as avid campers and having knowledge of park management this stood out as an issue that will  have to be resolved in the very near future as visitors continue to flock to this incredible UNESCO site.  As the sun began to set at camp, we found a lovely viewpoint and sat as a tired family and watched – what we think – was the most beautiful sunset we have ever seen. The sky lit up red and orange and then developed stripes of colour like a rainbow across the sky casting a gorgeous glow across the blue crater lake.  Just when we thought it couldn’t be more beautiful the sky started to fill with stars – the kind of sky of our childhood, free from light pollution…so dark that the Milky Way was visible in all its glory. The feeling of accomplishment we experienced as a family that night was indescribable, but the next morning Nick and Adeline would push themselves even more!

At 2:30am, our guide woke us to make the final push to the summit for sunrise.  Jake and I decided to stay back, but Addy and Nick rolled out of the tent (no one slept very well in our 2 person tent on paper thin mats) enthusiastic for the challenge.  The hike was both physically and mentally demanding. Addy and Nick hiked up a steep crest to the volcano summit.  Nick (who hiked this entire volcano in sandals because we lost his shoes in Cambodia) said that it was like walking in steep lava rock gravel/sand for hours – three steps forward and two steps back.  Addy was incredible and despite being so tired  and wanting to ‘get the heli out of here’ (her words) near the end, she showed  unwavering determination as they navigated the challenging terrain.   They reached the summit with  a mixture of exhaustion, happiness, and pride.  The panoramic views at the top were amazing – they could see all the way to Bali and the Gilis – Addy pounded back 6 Oreos, found her inner strength and she and Nick made the 3 hour trek back to the camp.   As we waited for their return we started to ask folks if they had seen a small girl and her dad and those that had praised Addy for her strength and determination, stating that as adults and experienced hikers they felt that was an extremely challenging hike.  One woman even said that the only way she was able to make it to the top was to tell herself that she had no other choice and as she struggled through the last 300 metres of loose sand she nearly gave up – when she made it to the top she said she just cried and cried.  Eek!  I felt so terrible at this point that we let Addy do it.  But when they got down, I (Amy) was full of pride (and tears) and Addy was just beaming and revelling  in the sense of accomplishment.

The descent from Rinjani was really tough, but everyone just kept pushing.  Slow and steady was our motto.  When we got to the bottom at about 5pm (yes, Addy and Nick had been hiking since 3am that day!), our hearts were filled with a deep appreciation for the resilience and adaptability of our children.  Hiking this majestic peak with them was a testament to their courage, determination, and capacity for adventure.   

After this incredible (and challenging) adventure we returned to Gili Air for a week of relaxation.  Nick got bitten by a horse, which was bizarre and terrible, but aside from that we just rested, met two groups of lovely Canadaians and swam with turtles – one was at least a metre big!  

Nick’s bite has healed, but he will have a gnarly scar on his rib for years to come, I think. Addy says he should just say he was bitten by a 40 metre python to make the story sound cooler, so Nick might just do that 🙂 

After the healing and relaxation, our next adventure took us on a thrilling boat trip from Lombok to Flores Islands, with a stop to see Komodo dragons on the way. 

Our boat trip began on the east side of Lombok, where we boarded a ‘traditional’ wooden vessel/clunker that would be our home for the next several days.   We opted for a deck class accommodation after hearing that cabin rooms offered no additional luxury.  Thankfully, we  were one of the first on the boat, so we secured four rubber mats on the floor side by side – a couple we met had to sleep apart :(.   

A total of 43 guests boarded along with us, and after a quick (i.e. non-existent)  orientation, we were off.   How do we capture our experience on this blog? Interesting and a little terrifying, yet incredible and magical all at the same time. 

After a fairly calm night at sea, we awoke at 6 am for an early morning dip and saw whale sharks. Incredible! That day we spent entirely at sea – Jake was desperate for movement and quickly made friends with everyone, including the crew, who sent him around to announce ‘yum yum time’ for all meals.  

Our second night at sea, was to put it lightly, a little more rough. As the boat motored across the top of the island of Sumbawa, the boat rode waves of 4 meters plus, and by midnight people began puking overboard. Thankfully we all survived without incident, but Nick did feel unwell most of the night and has now decided that he is not cut out to become a pirate.    

On our third day we arrived at Komodo Island, home to the legendary Komodo dragons.   Although it was not as wild as we were expecting, this experience was great. We spotted a huge Komodo as we walked along the pier and were able to catch a glimpse of a couple more of these prehistoric creatures in their natural habitat on our walk through the jungle. The children were fascinated by the sight of these majestic creatures, and Jake walked confidently ahead with the lead guide, pointing out non-Komodo wildlife in the jungle: birds and lizards and deers and chickens.  

Continuing our journey, we visited the amazing Pink Beach, named for its blush-coloured sands. We were told that the colour is a result of the red coral in the area.  It was a truly unique site.  We spent the day lounging on the pink sand and swimming in the crystal blue water.  It was a surreal experience.

One of the most memorable moments of our journey was when we encountered a pod of dolphins swimming alongside our boat.  It was at sunset (of course, how could it not be more idyllic), a pod of big dolphins (they honestly reminded me of Belugas because of their size) bobbling through the waves. Jacob, the boat’s unofficial town crier, alerted the masses to this marvellous sighting!  

Of course, no boat trip is without its challenges, but as a family we really had a blast.  Jake made so many friends (learned beer pong and how to play Pokemon Go) and Addy got to hang out and chat with lovely young women and was still able to  finish another novel, and Nick and I just took in the beauty and privilege of our life.  

As our boat trip from Lombok to Flores came to an end, we couldn’t help but feel a bittersweet mix of emotions. This adventure kind of marks the beginning of the end for us. Next we head to Java and then onto Sumatra, Japan and Canada, where we will start ‘normal’ life anew in Ottawa.

But before that many more adventures await..

Addy Post Indonesia (please note this was written before Rinjani. Parents are just slow to update the blog)

Hey y’all, it’s Addy. You can tell Indonesia’s cool from what you’ve read so far. This is where and what we’ve been doing: We left Gili Air (sadly) and took a public ferry from there to Lombok.( to be honest, I think Lombok is one of my favorite islands so far but I don’t want to pick names.) We took a car (kinda fancy, but seriously, what is fancy) to a town called Selong Belanak. Dad (Nick) read that there were good swells for beginner  surfing (hint, hint). We got to our hotel (very nice) and settled in quickly. The day after our arrival, we decided to give surfing a try. Of course, I was very nervous (I’m a safe gal) but I quickly got the hang of it. We spent that entire day surfing and came back to our hotel satisfied. Next day we were planning to do it again but me and mom’s (Amy’s) body’s were aching, so we decided not to do it that day. The last days have been the same. Chilli’n by the pool. Dad really likes surfing so he’s going to go out again. Last night we had a Spanish themed dinner at the hotel and it was delicious! Also we have a big pool. Byeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee. Addy Out.